Uromastyx.org

A few days ago I was having a conversation with a friend who was setting up his new Uro cages and it brought to mind ideal temperatures for Uromastyx enclosures. I decided to take some data from my Ornates and their habits in regards to temperature selection in my indoor cages.

For the past three days I’ve been checking the temps in my uro cages. I used a Raytek non-contact thermometer to measure temps. I chose to pull my data from the warmest part of the day, after the uros have eaten and are resting. The cool ends were 89, warm end 105, basking spot of 125-155 for all my ornate uros.

After eating my babies ornates always choose to hide and sleep in areas that rate at 96-102 degrees. My adults will choose to sleep/rest in areas that are 95-99 degrees. I also measured all of the hiding spots available and the temps ranged from 88-110.

This data suggests that my ornates are choosing very warm hides to thermoregulate and digest. Their cages are located in a room that sits at about 78 during the day. These numbers are consistent with the other times when I’ve checked these temps in the past. I’d venture to guess ornate uros prefer a body temp of 95-100.

Another thing I’ve noticed over the years is that my uros (Ornates, Egyptians, Sudanese) don’t sacrifice cover for temperature as much as other dinural lizards. They like to HIDE WARM. And if there is a warm basking spot but no warm hiding areas, they will often choose to hide in cooler (85-90) spots rather than bask out in the open. Conversely, beardeds or collareds will find the temp they prefer by basking in the open to thermoregulate. This makes sense as those lizards are predators and always need to be on the lookout for prey out in the open. Most uromastyx are prey animals in the wild and probably, once they have eaten, choose a safe warm place to rest and digest.

...Just some thoughts to consider when setting up uromastyx.

Greg Knoell
http://www.thecoloreddragon.com

Yea very true my ornate always rest after he eats under his basking spot brick his basking spot is about 133.5

Very interesting indeed. IMHO, a lot of new Uro keepers don't provide (among other things!) enough shelters inside their enclosures.

I am new to the uro world.I currently have a 55 gallon tank set up,have a 48" combo light.two 75 watt incondecent basking light bulbs over the basking site,UVB buld 10 accross entire enclosure and two 50 watt black heat bulbs ove the cooler end. It just seems like I cannot get the basking site over 103.everything I have read so far says it should be higher (hotter). the cooler side is averaging around 80-85 Also can I turn off all lights at night the temp had dropped to like 78 is that to cold. but during the day I have all the lights on and still cannot achieve the basking site site above 103 Pleeze help

Thanks,
peter

Hi Peter, and welcome. Have you tried adding height to the basking area? Get it closer to the light. This can be done by having a tile or rock sit on top of bricks or something similar. You want the temp to be 110-120F.

Tim,
Thanks,I actually just added a climbing log so he can get higher,but is ok if I shut all lights of at night,the temp usually dont get below.78 degrees,I do have two 50 watt black night bulbs on opposite end,if it gets to cold.

Peter

some brilliant input there gregg. thank you
i have found this with uros also. though not at all the case with chuckwallas as they are somewhat faster than uros and can dash into rock crevices pretty quick and puff up in order to wedge themselves in there! lol.

they are not out hunting like BD's but happily choose to bask in the open opposed to warm hides but will still often choose to rest in warm hides but retreat to cool hides during the hottest hours of the day and at night.

perhaps there are more preditors for uros in the wild also? thier temprements are often there for a reason lol. many people seem to have problems taming uros and nopt providing enough cover could be a very good reason why.

its these small but very significant differences that are key for beginners. though i always suggest loads of hides for any species.