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 Post subject: Do not eat
PostPosted: Sat Nov 06, 2010 7:04 am 
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Joined: Sat Nov 06, 2010 7:01 am
Posts: 4
Hi I have no other idea where else to turn than here.
I've had my Uro for 10 years now and I have never had the problem with him not eating during all those years. I know that they do have those moments during the autumn/winter where they don't eat, but this isn't one of them as this has been going on for far too long.
Been to the vet twice and they couldn't find what was wrong with him. He doesn't have any parasites as I did a test on him and he even got "shots" to enhance his appetite.
I've tried with everything even his favorite food which are peas and dandelions, but no luck there. He doesn't even react to food anymore. I've even tried force feeding him to get his tummy going again, sure he swallows it...but I can't force feed him for the rest of his life+it's not very comfortable for him.
I have even talked to this expert here about his enclosure and everything was perfect. He does have a warm place and at the other side of the tank he's got some shade. He have places where he can hide as well (2 rocks, 1 tube/tunnel and then this thick wooden branch, as I know that they like such things. He's got one bulb above his stone which gives him warmth, I believe it's a 75W by Radium. Then along the entire tank there are 2 Fluorescent lamps/tubes, one which just gives him extra light and the other one is a Repti Glo 10.0 Desert Terrarium Lamp, which gives him the UVB/UV rays. This always worked for him in the past. So don't think it can be that + he loves basking on our balcony when it's sunny in the summer and he always walks inside when he wants to go back home. I do also provide him with calcium, vitamins and such things.
Oh and he is also pooping normally, so he isn't constipated.

I know Uros shouldn't eat crickets and such things, but this other guy said that it wouldn't hurt to try and that it could trigger his apetite. So I dropped 3 crickets into his enclosure...no reaction.
I'm really worried, he seems perfectly fine on the outside and they can't find anything wrong with him on the inside...but he just won't eat and this hasn't been going on for just a few weeks but for a lot longer.

Any Gregory House-lizard experts out there who could possibly suggest me what to do? :cry:


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 Post subject: Re: Do not eat
PostPosted: Sat Nov 06, 2010 10:15 pm 
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Joined: Mon Mar 22, 2010 7:46 am
Posts: 293
Gosh, it sounds like you have covered everything. I am still learning and can't figure these guys out. We are going through something similar with an ornate uro. It seems like when they decide not to eat, they simply will do just that, not eat. As sad as it is and was, we could not do anything for one of our ornates. Another one is heading down the same path. They were not old Uros either.

I wish I could offer some advice. But it really does sound like you have done it all. Hopefully someone else will offer something to help. It seems we really just don't understand this magnificent lizard. :(

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Tim


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 Post subject: Re: Do not eat
PostPosted: Wed Nov 10, 2010 1:44 pm 
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Joined: Tue Apr 06, 2010 3:11 pm
Posts: 74
Location: Arlington, Texas
Sometimes lizards need to be re-accumulated even ones that have been in captivity for a long time. You mentioned force feeding him, sometimes that can do more harm then good. Lindsay pointed out to me that if it is a real dominate male that force feeding can break his spirit as the act of force feeding him is dominating him.

Get a digital gram scale and weigh him every 2-4 weeks. As long as he is not losing large amounts of weight I would not force feed him.

You mentioned that he is pooping. If he is pooping he is eating something when you are not around.

Stress can cause a Uro to go off food. If you have him in a glass aquarium cover all 4 sides. If you have him in a tank with glass just on the front cover that. Do not handle him for a couple months until he starts eating again.

Check your basking tempters with a Temp Gun much more accurate than a disc thermometer or a digital probe thermometer.
http://tempgun.com/
120-140 degree basking and a gradient of 75-85 degrees on the cool side.

If your Repti Glo 10.0 Desert is over 6 months old you may look into replacing it.

Try adding edible flowers to your feeding mix.
Dandelions, Hibiscus, Hollyhock, Rose petals, Nasturtiums, Dahlia, Day Lilies, Geranium, Pansies, Violets, Cat's Ear, Birdsfoot trifoil, borage flowers, arugula flowers, and mustard flowers, chrysanthemums, marigold, Etc.

Try dry foods like:

A mix of, uncooked green peas, lentils, various 15 been soup mix (remove large red kidney beans) grind up in a coffee grinder. You can add bee pollen to the mix. Lots of Uromastyx go nuts for bee pollen. You can find bee pollen granules at most health food stores.

You might also try Mazuri Tortoise Diet.

I have had lots of luck feeding white hulled mullet. Lots of people use it as substrate but I keep a small bowel of millet in there cages and my Uro's seem to love it.

It could be the winter slow down. Depending on what species you have they might even stop eating for a couple months while they brumate.

Keep us posted as to his progress.


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 Post subject: Re: Do not eat
PostPosted: Wed Nov 10, 2010 3:58 pm 
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Joined: Sat Nov 06, 2010 7:01 am
Posts: 4
The poop definitely comes from the food I got into him, I'm 100% sure he isn't eating. He doesn't even react to it the way he used to.
Guess I could stop force feeding him again, but to me it looks like he has lost some weight, even if the vet said that his weight was alright. I can see 2 bones sticking up from his neck and his elbows are really evident, which I didn't see before. Maybe his tummy just shrank, and it sort of became like a vicious circle. Who knows...He doesn't even stay put by his lamp to get totally warm like he used to, just goes and lays down where it's cooler despite him being still cold.

His tank is covered, so it's not that which could make him nervous.
The tank temp is perfectly fine and the Repti Glo was recently replaced...that is if it didn't get old really fast. :? Guess I could replace it again.
Flowers are pretty difficult to find at this time of year where I live (Sweden), but I will have a look around.
I have tried giving him peas and lentis and other such things which he usually loves, be he doesn't even look at it.
Tried giving him millet, no luck there either and I have never seen bee pollen granules where I live. There's probably loads more things in the US. :)
Pretty much tried with every single possible food out there that he used to go crazy for, but he acts like he doesn't care.

I'm also pretty sure that he isn't in his winter slow down as it started this summer. Been going on for ages. And it's breaking my heart to see him like this. Don't want him to die, he is my everything.

Really appreciate all the help/advice I can get. ♥


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 Post subject: Re: Do not eat
PostPosted: Fri Nov 12, 2010 8:09 am 
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Joined: Tue Apr 06, 2010 3:11 pm
Posts: 74
Location: Arlington, Texas
You mention everything is good with his temperatures.

What are you using to measure temperatures?

What are the basking and cool side temperatures in his cage?

What are the dimensions of his cage?

You mention a 75W by Radium over his basking spot?
How far from the basking spot is the bulb mounted?
75W does not seem like it would be enough to produce 120-140 degree basking?
I know in my cages it takes 150W to get to 120-140 degree basking spot.


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 Post subject: Re: Do not eat
PostPosted: Fri Nov 12, 2010 1:29 pm 
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Joined: Sat Nov 06, 2010 7:01 am
Posts: 4
Haven't got a proper thermometer at the moment, so thinking about getting one...but they are so darn expensive and tricky to find+hate buying stuff online.

I did actually consider getting a 100W, but the guys at the lizard store said that it would definitely be crazy to get that as it would be too hot for him. So I'm very skeptical about a 150 W, perhaps if I had a VERY high tank. Or if they produce a different temperature depending on the brand. Is that even possible?
He has always had a 75W and he was perfectly fine with it + it's really close to his stone...aprox. 10 cm(3,9 inches) to the highest point and to the base of his tank it's 20 cm(7,9cm). His tank was made by the store. Would be odd if this caused him the reaction to not eat now when he is 10 ½ years old, and I've had him since he was 1.
Talked to an expert at this zoo about all my specs and he says that it was perfect and he was surprised that he didn't eat.
I haven't force fed him for 2 days now, and will continue to do so. Will be interesting to see if there will be a change.
Guess there is no fast solution...just have to have loads of patience. :)


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 Post subject: Re: Do not eat
PostPosted: Sun Nov 14, 2010 5:20 pm 
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Joined: Tue Apr 06, 2010 3:11 pm
Posts: 74
Location: Arlington, Texas
How do you know your temperatures are fine if you have not measured them?

Here is a inexpensive temp gun. They sell them at most reptile shows and some pet stores if you prefer not to order online.
http://tempgun.com/

Is his basking light really 3.94 inches from his stone?
If it is your Uromastyx might be able to reach the light and burn himself?
Also I am guessing 3.94 inches from his stone might be way to hot?

Only way to know is to get a thermometer or preferably a temp gun.

What are the dimensions of your cage?
Height?
Width?
Length?

What are you feeding him?


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 Post subject: Re: Do not eat
PostPosted: Tue Nov 16, 2010 4:40 am 
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Joined: Sat Nov 06, 2010 7:01 am
Posts: 4
I can happily announce that he just started eating again all by himself after a few moderations! During the last few days I saw him change into a better mood so I guess all is well again. *phew* Thanks again for a all the help. :)


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 Post subject: Re: Do not eat
PostPosted: Tue Nov 16, 2010 11:30 am 
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Joined: Mon Mar 22, 2010 7:46 am
Posts: 293
That is great news!! What changes did you make? I hope all is well in the future.

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Tim


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